La cucina milanese, una gustosa figlia della povertà

Milano a tavola

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Meriterebbe di essere conosciuta meglio e apprezzata per quello che vale veramente. Un’orgogliosa figlia della povertà, che nel corso del tempo ha saputo arricchirsi e migliorarsi costantemente. Forse la cucina tipica milanese non è rinomata come quelle, più celebrate, di altre regioni italiane, ma può vantare, senza tema di smentita, alcuni piatti assolutamente deliziosi e saporiti, sia per i primi piatti che per i secondi e i dolci. Il piatto tipicamente milanese è manco a dirlo il risotto giallo allo zafferano, che secondo la tradizione fu inventato nel 1574 da un allievo di Mastro Valerio di Fiandra, il creatore delle vetrate del Duomo, che con il suo colore giallo vivo, dato appunto dallo zafferano, lo distribuiva ai suoi artigiani, in cantiere e in laboratorio, all’ora di pranzo, per tirare su il morale dei lavoratori, mentre la spezia, allo stato puro, veniva utilizzata per ravvivare il giallo d’argento. Poi la “busecca”, la trippa, un piatto unico (nel senso che quando lo si preparava si mangiava, poi, soltanto quello, tanto era sostanzioso) e così radicato nella tradizione meneghina che i vecchi milanesi, a quell’epoca, venivano chiamati “busecconi”. Un altro piatto unico e imprescindibile della cucina milanese è la “cassoeula”, uno strepitoso miscuglio di verze e carne di maiale, salsicce, cotiche e costine. E poi ancora i “mondeghili”, piccole e sfiziose polpettine fritte nel burro, e la popolarissima “cotoletta alla milanese”, con l’osso, alta più o meno un dito, e a “orecchio d’elefante”, sottilissima e molto larga, in entrambi i modi passata nella farina, nell’uovo e nel pangrattato. Per finire il panettone, uno dei simboli non solo della gastronomia e delle feste di Natale, ma proprio della città di Milano. E mi fermo qui, perché le specialità milanesi sono tante, forse troppe da elencare nello spazio concesso da un breve articolo. Ora la cucina milanese si va sempre più contaminando con altri sapori, soprattutto d’oltre confine, e i milanesi, quelli autentici, ma anche un po’ quelli adottati ormai molti decenni fa, cominciano a provare una forte nostalgia per il tempo che fu…

Il riso al salto. Un grande classico della cucina milanese

Oggi, se qualcuno mi chiedesse dove è possibile gustare a Milano ancora qualche piatto della cara, vera, vecchia cucina milanese, a parte qualche rarissima e poco visibile bettola degli anni Cinquanta, non saprei davvero che cosa rispondere. Forse nelle vicine campagne lombarde, chissà. La mia mente viene rapita dai ricordi personali, immagini sfuocate di una Milano che non c’è più, ostaggio delle furbizie di nuovi e spesso improvvisati ristoratori che cavalcano astutamente la “nostalgia canaglia” di tutti quelli come me. Adesso, questi “parvenu” dell’alimentazione subentrano con insopportabile spocchia ai proprietari delle vecchie trattorie meneghine che sembravano fatte con lo stampino, dall’arredamento ai lunghissimi menu, che sembravano non finire mai, scritti diligentemente con la macchina per scrivere, rimuovendo le insegne “vintage” dei locali e rinnovando completamente ogni cosa. Non c’è più la cultura della continuità, della tradizione da tramandare, l’orgoglioso senso dell’appartenenza a una categoria. Niente di niente. Si cerca soltanto la formula commerciale che renda di più e magari anche in fretta. Milano oggi sembra sempre in vendita: non c’è un luogo caro alla storia cittadina, infatti, che non abbia già un prezzo stabilito e non possa finire sul mercato. I ristoranti milanesi, adesso, sono “di tendenza”, seguono pedissequamente le mode del momento. Negli anni Ottanta, quelli, per intenderci, della cosiddetta “Milano da bere”, le carte di credito e i rimborsi spese delle aziende hanno sponsorizzato certe notti a base di linguine “rosso-nere”, al salmone, caviale e vodka, e branzino al sale. I milanesi che potevano e che ancora oggi possono spendere impazziscono, letteralmente, per il pesce, ovvio, ma non per il banalissimo merluzzo, o il semplice nasello, oppure la fin troppo delicata sogliola, o ancora un pesce azzurro qualsiasi: vogliono solo ed esclusivamente l’astice, l’aragosta, il salmone, l’orata e, appunto, il branzino. E il tonno, se c’è, deve essere rosso e croccante. Pretendono sempre e comunque il massimo: e anche riguardo alla carne, si parla ormai regolarmente di filetti e di tagliate, come se il manzo, poveretto, avesse soltanto quelli da offrire ai pignolissimi commensali…E del resto, le tendenze emergenti fanno ressa alla porta dei locali perché sono spinte da un nutrito (il termine mi sembra azzeccato) contingente di nuovi arricchiti, che hanno tanto grano e poca cultura, ospiti perfetti di una ristorazione che punta tutto, inesorabilmente, sull’apparenza, tralasciando la sostanza. Forse è per questo che la vecchia cucina milanese non si trova quasi più, o semplicemente, non interessa più a nessuno, a parte qualche maniaco come e molto più di me.  Non è di tendenza, non è spettacolare, in verità non lo è mai stata: riesce a sopravvivere soltanto attraverso i pochi cuochi di mestiere e il buon gusto degli sparuti clienti veramente appassionati. Non sono un esperto e non mi permetto minimamente di giudicare la sparuta pattuglia di locali che possono vantare ancora, miracolosamente, la tradizionale cucina meneghina. Mi limito a ringraziarli sentitamente, comunque, di esserci, di esistere. E ormai hanno tutti bisogno di qualcuno che li protegga, di un’associazione di categoria, un circolo dei gourmet che diffonda le loro gustose specialità e le faccia conoscere davvero. Sarebbe anche un modo per essere riconoscenti a questi luoghi di piacere della gola e dello spirito, e cercare di mantenere in vita una gastronomia speciale e al tempo stesso molto semplice. Tutta quanta da assaporare…

Ermanno Accardi

 

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